If you've shopped for plain t-shirts recently, you've probably seen "240 GSM" or "heavyweight cotton" on the label. It's the most useful number you can know about a tee, and most brands don't print it at all.
What is GSM?
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It's the weight of the fabric: take one square metre of the cloth and weigh it. A higher number means more cotton in every square inch of the shirt.
As a rough guide:
- Under 160 GSM: lightweight. Most fast-fashion and multipack tees sit here.
- 160–200 GSM: midweight. Soft and breathable, with a bit more body.
- 200 GSM and above: heavyweight. Thick, structured and long-lasting.
What 240 GSM gives you
A 240 GSM tee feels noticeably more substantial in your hand. In practice that means:
- It isn't see-through, even in white.
- It hangs better. Heavier fabric drapes straight down instead of clinging, which is why oversized tees look best in heavyweight cotton.
- It lasts longer. More fabric means less twisting, thinning and stretched-out collars after repeated washes.
That's why the Hallberd Oversized Plain T-Shirt, Women's Oversized T-Shirt and Classic Crew T-Shirt are all 240 GSM.
When 180 GSM is the better choice
Heavier isn't always better. For a fitted piece that sits close to the body, a lighter fabric moves with you and feels softer against the skin. Our Crop Top is 180 GSM, 100% cotton for exactly that reason: fitted pieces need to follow your shape, not hold their own.
Is 240 GSM too hot for Indian weather?
Fabric weight matters less than fibre and fit. 100% cotton breathes well at any weight, and a relaxed oversized cut lets air move between the fabric and your body. If you run very warm, a lighter-coloured heavyweight tee in a loose fit is a better choice than a thin, tight one.
The short version
Look for the GSM. Choose around 240 for oversized and everyday tees you want to keep for years, and around 180 for fitted pieces like crop tops. Browse the full range in the Hallberd Basics.